Saturday, January 21, 2012

2012 Florida Garden Events Calendar

Stop missing your favorite plant show or sale! Calendar will updated as events are announced.

Sarasota Orchid Show and Sale
Jan 7-8, 2012
Sarasota Municipal Auditorium, Sarasota, FL

Ft Lauderdale Orchid Society Show
Jan 20-22, 2012
War Memorial Auditorium, Ft Lauderdale, FL

Garden Fest 2012
Jan 7-8, 2012
Riverside Park, Vero Beach, FL

Key West Orchid Society Show
Mar 2 -4, 2012
West Martello Towers, Key West FL

Amelia Island Garden Show 
March 3-4, 2012
Central Park, Amelia Island, FL

Epcot International Flower and Garden Festival 
March 7 - May 20, 2012
Epcot - Walt Disney World, Orlando, FL

Florida Wildflower and Garden Fesitval
March 24, 2012
Downtown Deland, FL

Spring Obsession Show and Sale
March 10th, 2012
Munn Park, Lakeland, FL

Leu Gardens' Annual Plant Sale 
March 17-18 , 2012
Leu Gardens, 1920 N. Forest Avenue, Orlando, FL

Spring Garden Events at Flamingo Gardens
March, 2012
3750 S Flamingo Road, Davie, FL

Tampa Bay Orchid Society Show and Sale
March 2-4, 2012
Egypt Shrine Center Activities Bldg. 4050 Dana Shores Dr, Tampa,  FL

USF Botanical Gardens Spring Plant Festival
Apr 14, 2012
Botanical Gardens, 4202 E. Fowler Avenue, Tampa, FL

USF Botanical Gardens 10th Annual Butterfly, Herb and Native Plant Fair
Jun 9, 2012
Botanical Gardens, 4202 E. Fowler Avenue, Tampa, FL

USF Botanical Gardens 11th annual Tropical Plant Fair
Jul 14, 2012
Botanical Gardens, 4202 E. Fowler Avenue, Tampa, FL

The Landscape Show
September 27-29, 2012
Orange County Convention Center - Orlando, Florida

USF Botanical Gardens Fall Plant Festival
Oct , 2012
Botanical Gardens, 4202 E. Fowler Avenue, Tampa, FL

USF Botanical Gardens - Tampa Orchid Club - Orchid Show and Sale
Oct , 2012
Botanical Gardens, 4202 E. Fowler Avenue, Tampa, FL

Mount Dora Plant and Garden Fair
November 3-4, 2012
Simpson Cove - Mount Dora, FL
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Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Where There's A Will, There's A Root

Many plumeria enthusiasts go to great lengths to ensure successful germination and growth of seedlings. (For the record I am not a fan of growing from seed, I just don't have the attention span for it and prefer to leave it to the experts.) When rooting we try to control every possible variable - heat, light, potting medium, nutrients etc. and spend countless hours doing research and experimenting. After a successful rooting based on a set of parameters we concoct, we will declare that particular method a success. But maybe it was just luck - maybe a seed will do what it intends to do, with or without our help (or in spite of) with the tiniest amounts of moisture, light, and nutrients. A couple of years ago a seedpod opened on a tree and some seeds dropped before I could harvest them. A few months later, about a dozen had sprouted in the shade with very little sun, on some rocks. Yes rocks. Big white marble chips a few inches deep, with layers of pebble underneath. Several inches down is a mix of sand, shell, and who knows what if any kind of soil. As if that wasn't impressive, these tiny, tender seedlings also survived a brutal winters with record low temperatures that injured and killed many large trees. So perhaps we spend a little too much time (and money) over analyzing the process. Or maybe I have discovered a "super terrific mega plumeria". I'll be hanging to to a few of these seedlings just in case.
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Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Fertilizer Ban - Research Your Replacement Products

Some of you here in Florida, and other parts of the country may already know there is are fertilizer bans in certains places and manufacturers are phasing out products that contain phosphorus. Here in Pinellas County fertilizers containing nitrogen and/or phosphorus cannot be applied to lawns or landscape plants from June 1 to September 30.

That means some your long time favorite fertilizer and other products that contain phosphorus have been removed from the shelves of Lowes, Home Depot, etc. and replaced with phosphate free products. First off, you may still be able to find your favorite fertilizer at smaller stores, like ACE and such. But run, don't walk. Usually, when a product is deemed not fit for public consumption smaller stores take longer to run out of their stock and it remains on the shelves for months, even years(remember Diazinon?) . However I have heard that in the fertilizer ban case, county officials are actually going to stores and enforcing the ban.


So, you realize it's too late, you're stuck with the alternative, whatever that may be. Many products are being replaced with those we are not familiar with, made by companies we've never heard of. Before you just put in your cart and take it home, do some research. Don't just assume that because the retailer put it on the shelf where the good stuff used to be, that it's okay to use, or that the application or results will be the same. Read the labels carefully, and ask your friend or neighbors if they have used it.

Case in point: The St Augustine lawn fertilizer I have used for years, was removed from the shelves and replaced with something I never heard of. But it was the only alternative so I took it. I read the application method - same sthe other stuff. That evening I set the spreader, put it down, watered it in. Just like the other stuff. Then to my horror the next morning. there were orange streaks from the iron all over my driveway. The old stuff never did that. Yes there is rust remover for driveways, and yes it removes the stain - and leaves a bright white streak. So if you prefer orange streaks to white, don't bother. I'm sure there was some tiny mention on the bag about not getting the product on walkways, etc. It was probably on the old stuff too. On the bright side, the lawn is nice and green.
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Monday, December 13, 2010

Protect Your Plumeria From Freezing Temps

Old Man Winter is a bit early this year. We do not normally see freezing temperatures along the Tampa Bay gulf beaches, especially this early in the season. I can only recall freezing one time in the last 10 years (last January). So much for global warming.
Special care must be taken to protect Plumerias if freezing weather is expected. For mild climates in southern Florida or Texas (zones 9 or higher) covering them with freeze cloth or wrapping them with Christmas lights a couple nights a year may be all that is necessary. Small potted plants can be easily moved indoors.

In cooler climates plumerias will need protection all winter, or as long as freezing temperatures are possible. Plumerias are dormant during this time and can be dug up and stored bare root in a garage or basement, as long as it is dry. They will most likely be defoliated already, but if any leaves remain remove them before moving inside to save yourself from having to pick them up later. They do not require light, food, or water during this time.

When spring approaches they will begin to wake up. Their tips will become shiny - a sign that leaf growth is about to begin. As long as there is no danger of a freeze, they can be moved back outdoors.
A note of caution - If you store your plumeria indoors, be carefull to store them upright, do not stack them. Otherwise the ones on the bottom of the pile may rot, due to poor air circulation.
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Plumeria Care
Plumeria are a tropical flowering tree, sometimes called frangipani, in the plant family Apocynaceae. It is the famous Hawaiian lei-flower. Though tropical by nature, when protected from frost, plmerias are well suited to subtropical climates in the United States in states bordered by the Gulf of Mexico (mainly Florida and Texas), and in Southern California. Plumerias can also be grown indoors.

Plumerias can be grown in containers, in the ground, or containers sunk in the ground. During the months of active growth, ample sun, food, and water are essential. Healthy plumeria will grow vigorously and bloom regularly and profusely when they receive at least 6 hours of full sun per day and an ample amount of the proper fertilizers. Plumeria love lots of water, but can't tolerate wet feet, so they must be planted in highly organic fast draining soil or in beds with adequate drainage. Clay, gumbo, and silt are examples of poor draining soils; avoid these at all costs.

The way you care for your plumeria depends on the season of the year. Bring your plants out of storage in the spring, watch them grow and bloom in the summer, prepare for dormancy and storage in the fall, and store them for the winter.

Spring

When the nighttime temperatures begin to usually remain above 50 degrees, plumeria can be brought out of winter storage and encouraged out of dormancy. Due to conditions of storage, some root loss and desiccation of branches is expected, this is no cause for alarm. This is the time to feed, water, top dress, and/or repot. Since the plant is dormant, it will be minimally disturbed by repotting and root pruning as necessary.

Repotting and root pruning are optional and are performed as with any other container grown plant. Top dress by scraping off the loose soil and dead roots from the first couple centimeters of soil. Replace the removed soil with a mixture of compost and/or well composed cow manure. Feed and water thoroughly using a fertilizer.

Place the plant in a warm and sunny location. Some people like to sink the container into the ground, but be sure it is in a raised and well drained area such as a rose bed. This promotes more vigorous growth, provides support, and prevents it from blowing over. Plumeria tips are fragile and easily snapped off when the plant blows over.

Summer

For plumerias, summer has arrived once a lush growth of leaves has developed. Many will bloom before developing leaves, others will not. Once the leaf growth has developed, the summer regimen of care can be followed.

As mentioned before plumeria are heavy feeders. However, in order to discourage excessive stem elongation and to promote flowering, fertilizers low in nitrogen and high in phosphorous are, once again, recommended. Keep a plumeria healthy by feeding once or twice a month, and watering as necessary. The recommended foods can be sprinkled directly on the soil and then watered in. Consider using two tablespoons per five gallon pot per month.

During exceptionally hot periods, plants in above ground containers may need thorough watering as often as every other day. Drooping leaves can indicate a thirsty plant. As with all plants, check the soil before watering, if its dry for the first several centimeters, water thoroughly. Certain varieties of plumeria find Texas heat excessive for nominal blossom production. If this appears to be a problem, move the plant into a "shifting shade" location for better flower production and keeping quality.

As the days begin to grow shorter during August and September, some lower leaf yellowing and drop is normal. Some varieties will attempt a fall bloom cycle, if you are lucky and the weather cooperates, plumeria can still be blooming into November and December! But watch out, an early frost can damage or kill the plant.

Fall

For plumeria, fall begins once the nighttime temperature frequently begins to drop below 55 degrees. Studies have concluded that plumeria stop growing when the average ambient temperature drops below 65 degrees. Stop feeding and reduce water to encourage the plant to go into its natural dormant period.

Some growers think that feeding after mid August may contribute to the black tip fungus problem, however this has not been proven. It is difficult to predict the weather and therefore it's difficult to give a date by which your plumeria should be safely stored for the winter. By all means, if temperatures are expected to fall into the lower 30's, the plants should be protected. Most varieties can be damaged or killed by temperatures in the low 30's for even a few hours.

Winter

During the winter plumeria require very little care. In fact winter care could be considered winter storage.

Before storage, the plumeria should be defoliated. The best way to do this is to cut each and every leaf off the plant at a point about 2 cm from the stem. If you don't defoliate, the leaves will yellow and fall off during storage providing a good environment for pests and fungus (as well as make a mess).

Store the plumeria in a cool to warm, dry, and ventilated area such as a garage, storage shed, or your living room. Temperatures should not be allowed to fall below freezing in the storage area. During exceptionally cold periods, for example below 25 degrees outside, a small supplemental heater may be required for plants stored in unheated sheds. A cool greenhouse is not recommended for plumeria storage because it will tend to be too damp and thus promote black tip fungus and other fungus problems.

Some people suggest not watering plumeria at all for the entire winter, but probably a small monthly drink does more good than harm, especially if the branches are getting desiccated and the plant is in a warm dry location.

Since a defoliated plumeria takes up considerably less space than one in full leaf, they can frequently be stacked two and three high in the storage area.
Rooting Instructions

Plumeria cuttings need heat and sun to root. If you do not live in a warm climate, you will need a greenhouse, or if indoors use artificial lighting and heat mats. Dry the cutting for 1-3 weeks in a cool dry location. Prepare the soil by mixing 2/3rd Perlite to 1/3rd potting soil. Or, you can use ready to use cactus mix. Choose a pot about 4 - 6 inches wide and 4 - 6 inches deep with good drainage. Fill the pot with the soil mix, leaving 1 inch from the pot rim. Dip the bottom inch of the cutting into a rooting hormone (like Rootone or Clonex). Sink the cutting into the pot about 3 inches below the dirt. Do not to plant too deep - the roots develop from the bottom of the cutting. Press and firm the mix adding more if needed. You can add gravel to the top of the pot to stabilize the cutting. Water it until water drains out the holes. To help promote rooting, you can water with SuperThrive. Do not water again until the soil becomes bone dry. Over watering can cause rot. Place the pot in a warm sunny location . Placing it on a warm concrete patio or heat mat will help stimulate root growth. In a few weeks(3-6 depending on climate and time of year)roots will develop. Tug gently on the cutting - if there is strong resistance, you have roots. ***Tip Using clear pots will allow you the rooting progress without disturbing it.*** This is by no means the only or official way to root. There are a lot of variations, and different methods used. One is called "water rooting" , and we will address in a separate post.
Plumeria Available For Sale- Cuttings and rooted plants are available on ebay: ebay listings

Seeds:
Miami Rose (25 count) $10
Loretta (10 count) $10
Confetti (5 count) $10
Celadine (25 count) $10
Mixed (30 count random mix from over a dozen trees) $10

Shipping within the US only, via USPS Priority Mail. Prices include shipping. To order, send a request to info@floridaplumeria.com. Include the variety, quantity, and mailing address. We will confirm availablity and send you a Paypal invoice.